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Introducing The Isle Of Harris

By: John Angus Macleod


Introducing the Isle of Harris

John Angus Macleod

Many people will be aware of the type of cloth known as Harris Tweed which is so called because it is hand made on the Isle of Harris. However, even though tourism generates an important income for islanders, the Isle of Harris, in the Western Isles/Outer Hebrides of Scotland, is not generally wide known as a vacation destination. However the island has much to offer the visitor.

The main town, and ferry port, on the Isle of Harris is Tarbert. Tarbert is not really a town but rather a small village found at the narrow isthmus which is the border between North and South Harris. Set in a sheltered green valley the houses appear on steep terraces. The older buildings are found on the narrow main street which is rather picturesque but sadly rather congested at times. Below the main street is a relatively new road built to ease congestion and provide more space for ferry traffic.

One of the first things you will notice about North Harris is the wonderful views of the North Harris hills (mountains). Driving around the area is something of an experience and highly enjoyable but care must be taken as much of the road is single track with passing places. At one point you will find yourself driving through a stone archway and into the grounds of Amhuinnsuide Castle (pronounced 'avan-soo-ee'). Don't be alarmed because, even though you pass right in front of the front door, you are still on the public highway.

About 15 minutes drive from Tarbert is the small island called the Isle of Scalpay which is joined to the Isle of Harris by a narrow single track bridge. Scalpay once had a population of well over 800 and was an incredibly busy fishing community. Today the population is less than 300 but there is still a small but active fishing fleet. The north harbour is where you will find the pier but one of the best places to visit involves a trek across open moorland. Eilean Glas lighthouse was the first built in Scotland erected in 1788. Now automated the buildings and surrounding grounds are both beautiful and interesting.

South Harris is very different to North Harris and many consider this area to be the most beautiful on the Isle of Harris. On the east side it is very rocky with many rocky coves and single track roads which twist and turn endlessly. On the west coast it is far greener with large area of machair leading onto some of the finest beaches in Scotland and views out to the island of Taransay (which hosted a survival type of televised competition some years ago).

Around the village of Scarista is the area where you will find many of the finest beaches. The village is spread along the main road with the beaches to your right as you travel southwards. Please take care when driving here as the scenery is so astounding that many visitors slow their cars almost to standstill without realizing and, although accidents are extremely rare, you could startle any traffic behind you.

Just after the beaches you arrive at the village of Leverburgh. If you are catching the ferry over to Berneray and the Uists it is here that you will have to watch for a turn off to the right which leads straight to the CalMac ferry terminal. Leverburgh is a useful place to stop and restock as it has two excellent shops. The first one you pass (on the right) also supplies fuel as well as groceries and other goods, the second is on the left and is a small post office and gift shop.

>From Leverburgh onwards the road now remains inland but it is only a short distance to the last village of Rodel. At one time this was the main village on the Isle of Harris but has long since lost it's importance. It is also at Rodel that you will find one of the best tourist attractions on the Isle of Harris, the medieval St Clements Church. It is well worth a visit and after a walk in the graveyard you can call inside (the keys can be picked up at the nearby hotel) and see the incredible interior with intricately decorated tombs.

Thinking of visiting Harris? Take a look at http://www.harrisguesthouse.co.uk/isle-of-harris-guest-house.html Isle of Harris guesthouse and http://www.hebridesguesthouse.co.uk/hebridesguesthouse.html Hebrides guesthouse

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