Be Your Own Garden Doctor By Testing Soil Acidity

Most gardeners know there are acid and alkaline soils and that some plants, thriving on one element, will sicken and die on the other. They also know that tho three most essential plant food elements are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and that some plants need more of one than another and If the wrong element is fed to them they will not react naturally; potatoes run to tops instead of root-tubers, tomatoes go to vine with no fruit, flower plants grow stalks and leaves and will not bloom. They know this but, in most cases, they do not know how to ascertain what element is lacking and what is too abundant

There is a simple, accurate and very inexpensive method of obtaining this information— a soil-testing kit. These kits can be obtained in various sizes at the local garden supply store; the smaller and most handy for the average gardener costing only a couple of dollars. The kits contain solutions to test the soil for acidity, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium-content to a very accurate degree. These testing solutions can be obtained from the kit manufacturer when they are exhausted so the kit will last as long as the gardener needs it.

To elaborate on the necessity of keeping a close check on the garden soil; the acidity of the soil is measured by its hydrogen concentration or PH. PH values run from 1 to 14; 7 being neutral and anything above 7 is alkaline; below.is acid, The PH element in the soil is neutralized by applying lime, raised in alkalinity by the addition of lime, limestone or bonemeal. The PH quotient is lowered with aluminum sulphate, sulphur, or tannic acid used cautiously. Better still, a liberal amount of peat moss, oak or pine leafmold, wellrotted hardwood sawdust, or pumice spaded deep into the earth will bring the acidity down nicely.

If acid-loving plants such as azelea, blackberry, chrysanthemum, orchid, rhododendron, magnolia and lupine are set out in soil of high alkaline con* tent they will droop, turn yel- 'low and drop their leaves and the roots will be stunted. Most acid-loving plants like a soil testing not more than PH 6.5, preferring a PH between 4 and 6.

ALKALINE-SOIL plants such as alyssum, carnation, mignonette, nasturtium, sweet-peas and phlox will react similarly if the rooting earth becomes acid. They become stunted, turn sickly yellow or reddish and droop.

The process of soil-testing with a kit is very simple. The kit is equipped with four sets of bottles and test tubes. Each set of bottles tests a different element; acidity, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Soil from three inches below the surface of the particular spot to be tested is dropped into the tube, fluid for that particular test is poured into a half-full mark and the tube shaken for half a minute. The mixture is allowed to settle for a minute and a notched card .with colored celluloid in the notches is held to the cleared liquid in the tube. There are five notches in the card-edge, each with a different color and letter and numerical indicator. When the color of the card notch and the tube fluid are matched as near as possible, the number under that Color is compared with a master chart that shows the degree of PH or chemical element in the soil. Blue is alkaline; red or yellow is acid, etc. In-between shades are also numbered on the chart so that a very accurate estimate can be made.

The test is accurate to the extent that tho inside of the test tube cork, the soil or chemical should not be touched with the hands as it will alter the resultant test. If the soil to be analyzed is to be carried to a more convenient place, new paper bags should be used and labeled to avoid losing track of the location of the soil sample.

When you use a soil-test kit you know when to use special or incomplete fertilizer to remedy special deficiencies in sick plants.