L A G A R
The lagar, in which the grapes are trodden and pressed, is a
rectangular wooden trough, 12 feet square and about 2 feet deep,
with a 6-foot iron screw in the centre; its floor rests upon
four legs about 3 feet high: it has a lip, with a funnel
attached to it, through which the sweet grape-juice flows
straight into tubs and then into casks, where it ferments away
from grape stalks and skins.
The lagar is half filled with 60 hampers of grapes, 1,500 lb. in
all, which are evenly distributed and sprinkled with 3 to 4 lb.
of yeso, or gypsum. Then the pisadores, or treaders, usually
four together, enter the lagar, shod with shoes studded with
projecting nails. They goose-step solemnly and rhythmically up
and down the mass of grapes in the lagar, from midnight to dawn,
and when they leave off, the trodden pulp is heaped round the
iron screw and held together by an esparto grass broad tape. The
lid of the press is then screwed down on this heap, bringing up
to 9° per cent. of the total
the grape-juice trodden and pressed out of the grapes. The
remaining 20 per cent. extracted later by an hydraulic press is,
however, of distinctly inferior quality and never mixed with the
juice of the first flow.
CRIADERAS
A few hours after the grapes have been pressed, the casks are
taken from the vineyards to the bodegas. There the sweet juice
starts fermenting 'furiously', and it soon casts off a scum of
'undesirables' at the bung-hole of the cask in which it is
lodged, in the dark and cool Bodegas. Presently the new wine
settles down in peace to a slow, steady second fermentation
during which the characteristics of its own idiosyncrasies are
developed under the screen of thin flor, or yeast. Then it is
that the experts taste every cask, containing no longer mosto
but vino de anada, and they decide which criadera, or nursery,
will be the right one for each wine to go to: that which
possesses outstanding distinction is sent to the Palma criadera;
that which has more muscle than breed goes to the Palo Cortado
and the stoutest of all to the Rayas criaderas. After being
racked off their lees and before being sent to their allotted
criadera to age, the wines, which are by this time quite dry,
are given a fair taste of brandy, about 4 gallons per butt, and
this rules out all possibility of any further fermentation.
ANADAS AND SOLERAS
There was a time when at Jerez, wines from different vineyards
and years were kept apart, unblended; they were called Anadas or
Vintages. With age the Anadas wines acquired greater body,
higher strength, and darker color, making it difficult to build
up and keep up constant and ample supplies of Sherry wines of
those types and styles for which the demand was greater. Hence
the Solera system, introduced long ago and now universally
adopted.
The Solera is the Spanish method of equalization and
rejuvenation of Sherry wines by the gradual introduction of
younger wines to older ones. Butts of Sherry, containing wine of
one and the same sort, are stacked in tiers, the younger wine
above and the older below. To make up his blends, the Sherry
shipper draws as much as he wishes from the butts of the bottom
tier; the quantity drawn is replaced by wine from the butts
immediately above, these are replenished with wine from the next
tier, and so on until the topmost tier, the butts of which are
filled up with wine from the right Criaderas, where the young
Palma, Palo Cortado, Rayas, and oilier wines are kept during the
early years of their development.
FINOS, OLOROSOS, ETC
FINOS are Sherries from Palma Soleras: they are pale, and dry
without any trace of bitterness; they possess greater grace than
strength, and are best before or between meals.
Amontillados are Finos which have acquired with age a greater
alcoholic strength, a deeper amber color and a distinctive
Montilla-like character. Best served before or between
meals.
Vinos de Pasto vary greatly, but as a rule they are less dry
than Finos and lack the somewhat assertive flavor of
Amontillados; they may be served as white table wines.
Olorosos, the wines of Palo Cortado Soleras, range from golden
to brown in color, and from 18 to 20 per cent. in alcoholic
strength, reaching 24 per cent. when very old. They have more
body and power than Finos, but less 'breed', and are best with
soup or dessert.
Amorosos and Brown Sherries are among the sweeter and darker
Olorosos, and are served as dessert wines.
Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel wines are made from varieties of
grapes exceedingly rich in grape-sugar; they are more liqueurs
than wines.
Vinos de color are made from grape-juice boiled to a thick syrup
diluted with ordinary 'must', which ferments with it. Vinos de
color are used to color and sweeten the darker and sweeter
Sherries.
MANZANILLA, MONTILLA, PAJARETE
Manzanilla is the chief and most typical wine made from the
grapes of the Sanlucar vineyards; it possesses a distinctive
character unlike that of other Sherries. It is pale in color,
dry with a slightly bitter 'finish ', 15.5 per cent. only in
alcoholic strength, when young, but it does gather higher
strength with years. It is best served cold before or during
meals.
Montilla is an unfortified wine which may reach 16 per cent. of
alcohol when completely fermented. It is made from the grapes of
La Sierra de Montilla and Los Moriles vineyards, in the Province
of Cordoba; it possesses great distinction and an attractive
flavor of its own. It should be served cold before or between
meals.
Pajarete, or Paxarete, from the Pajarete vinyards between
Villamartin and Prado del Rey, is a sweet wine that was popular
in England in Victorian days. It is shipped now to the U.S.A
where it is known as Blending Sherry and used by Whisky
Blenders.
The abortive miniature glasses in which Sherry is served in most
hotels and restaurants are a disgrace and an insult. Sherry
lovers must refuse them and demand wine-glasses for all Sherry
wines, preferably narrower at the top so as to concentrate the
bouquet of the wine.
This article is the last in the short series from
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